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I am making a stylish tunic using knit fabric. The tunic has gathers, once sewn the gathers still move?

on the seamline if that makes any sense. The tunic basically has a yoke with the body of the shirt being gathered and attached to the yoke. Its a popular style right now. If I sew gathers using woven fabric, once sewn the gathers are in for good. However using this knit fabric, when I test the seam it's like the gathers are still movable on the seamline (almost as if I had sewn a gathering/basting stitch on a woven fabric). The seamline is also not very stretchable. What am I doing wrong. I am just using a conventional Singer machine but have used the machine for straight seams on other knits just not gathered seams...is there a solution beyond using a serger? I've tried playing with tension. HELP!!!

I'm not quite sure what's going on here.

Is it: You've gathered the body fabric with a straight stitch, but not yet applied it to the yoke? If so, yes, I would expect the fabric to move along the basting seamline some, and it would not stretch much. I would presume that the shirring is not going to be used for fit purposes -- that is, this is not a pattern designed so the seams must stretch to fit you, like a swimming suit. If you don't need the stretch to fit you, just go ahead and construct it as if it were a woven fabric pattern. You only need stretch in a seamline if the seamline must expand for fitting.

If this is something that must expand to fit, then the easy way to gather fabric would be to zigzag it to "clear elastic", then insert the gathered fabric into the yoke with a stretch stitch.

Can you show us the picture of the pattern? That may help me figure out what's going on and what needs to happen.

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